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Fabulous views from the "pirate tower"

The view from the Pirate Tower

Winter is the best time of year to explore Ibiza by car. There are places - many of them up in the untouched northern reaches of the island - where time genuinely seems to have stood still. True blue Ibiza is waiting for you when you turn off the main road and onto one of the caminos.

We've planned out one of the most attractive road trips possible, complete with "secret side roads", just for you. It is easily navigable by car. Have fun exploring! No doubt your trip will be all the more pleasant in the knowledge that while you're taking in the Ibiza sunshine, other parts of Europe are being bombarded with snow and ice...

Sant Miquel with its massive fortress church

Here's a tip before we get started: don't set off too late in the day, because the sun is at its warmest at midday and sets quite early. We would suggest 10 a.m. as a good time to start your trip with a coffee and a ham sandwich (bocadillo con jamon) in one of Santa Gertrudis' cosy little bars. Now let's make a start by setting off towards Sant Miquel (right now, you'll probably be wondering whether whoever designed the slip roads had something against people wanting to make a left turn).

After about 800 metres, you'll see the obligatory rubbish containers on your left-hand side, and it's time to turn left. The road is narrow - but surfaced - and offers you an insight into what the island must have been like hundreds of years ago. To your right is a large field of cacti, followed by a charming old finca, complete with mill, and an avenue lined with palm trees.

Feel free to stop and get out of your car to take a look at anything that catches your eye. You have plenty of time to explore. You can already see the red earth that is so typical of the island. By the way, the colour comes from the iron ore in the soil and is basically a form of rust that also makes great fertiliser.

You’ll find this impressive pine tree on the way from Santa Gertrudis to Sant Miquel

Continue along the surfaced road. If you come to any forks in the road, keep to the left. To your right, you will see an avocado farm (these are also grown on the island). Tree lovers are in for a real treat now because you're about to pass a centuries-old scotch pine (Pinus Silvestris), which is a rare sight on Ibiza.

This mighty tree deserves a little recognition - at the very least, you should stop off to give it a friendly pat and take a couple of photos. This pine tree is also a symbolic landmark for our trip, because it signals that it's time to turn off onto a broader road leading towards Sant Miquel.

The village consists of a long main street and a couple of dozen houses that have been built on the hillside, protected by the imposing fortified church. The church is well worth a visit. You can opt to walk up the gently sloping hill to get there, but there are also parking spaces provided outside the church if you want to go for the less strenuous option.

This palatial like finca dates back several hundred years

Now it's time to move on - and again, the first stage of the journey will take you along the main road for a short stretch: first doubling back to the village and then taking a left towards Sant Joan. After the dip (approx. 600 metres), take your foot off the accelerator and turn left onto real camino (country lane).

Soon, you'll see the ancient walls of a finca with an enchanting inner courtyard. Anyone who opts to keep driving is missing a real experience. Sit down on the steps warmed by the sun, let the walls tell you their story and imagine how life must have been here hundreds of years ago. Oh, and of course you get a wonderful view of the green Sant Miquel valley from up here, too.

Now jump back into your car and follow the lane, keeping to the left when you meet a fork in the road. The path leads you through pinewoods revealing beautiful views. The camino comes to an end when it meets the tarmaced road to Port Sant Miquel (Sant Miquel harbour). On Ibiza, harbours and towns are often not located in the same place - the harbour is by the sea - logically enough - whereas the main town is a few kilometres away.

Why? Because the residents lived in fear of pirate attacks. When pirates landed at the harbour, they still had a long walk ahead of them before they reached the town. In many cases, the distance either deterred the pirates or gave the town's people enough time to escape before the invaders arrived. Incidentally, the warning system back then consisted of a series of watchtowers (pirate towers), which can be found all over Ibiza and were manned day and night by sentinels. If any pirates were spotted, smoke or mirror signals and calls were sent out to warn inhabitants.

Our next stop is one of these "pirate towers", with a truly amazing view. Follow the broad road that we've just taken towards Port Sant Miquel. But not right to the end. Shortly before reaching the harbour, turn left towards Na Xemena. The road is a pleasant, meandering one that will take you through the woods until soon you see a red and yellow signpost marked "Kiosco". Follow the sign - and be prepared for a dusty ride...

If you don’t have an off road car, leave it here

To your left, you'll see a ruined stable. If you're travelling in a normal car, you should park beside the container. If you own a four-wheel drive and are not afraid of steep slopes and a thorough shaking, you can keep driving to reach the "pirate tower" known as "Torre des Molar" by car. But the journey only takes five minutes on foot - and is worth the effort.

The mighty silhouette of the well-fortified tower stands out against the blue sky and the "Torre des Mola" is one of the few towers that are still open to the public. You will sense the fortifications - walls several metres thick - all around you as you enter the cramped stairwell and make your way up the winding stairs to the top of the tower.

The view is breathtaking, stretching all the way to the private island of "Illa des Bosc" and its luxurious villa complex that was recently purchased by a Russian businessman for more than 30 million euros. If you feel like hiring the island, it will set you back 21.000 euros a day, or 147.000 euros for a week, which is the minimum period for which the owner is willing to rent it out. So perhaps it's better to forget about the island and simply enjoy the view out over our final destination: the rocky outcrop nicknamed the "Finger of God", down in Benirras bay.

How are you doing for time? If you have some to spare, it's worth making a detour to visit the little bay opposite the private island. Afterwards, it's back to the main road and off to the bay of Port Sant Miquel. The beach, normally so lively, is quiet and empty at this time of year, and has a dreamy quality, but wait until we reach Benirras, where the stuff of dreams is really made. On the other side of the bay, the coastal road from Port Sant Miquel leads upwards towards Benirras.

On the way, we pass the "Cova de Can Marca", Ibiza's largest stalactite cave. The road offers some fantastic views of the sea. Once again, we reach a wide road and keep to the left, heading for the bay of "Benirras". A magnet for old-time hippies and drummers in the summer, the place is transformed off-season into a peaceful oasis. The sea caresses the sandy beach and the picturesque fishermen's huts, where the families of the fishermen would normally be enjoying the cool sea, are empty.

The terraces of the boathouses are dotted with roughly crafted benches and small tables. We don't think that the fishermen will mind us sitting down on one of the benches to enjoy the view of this lovely seaside location - provided that we respect his property and keep the place clean. Maybe you've brought a bottle of red wine with you, and some bread and cheese. It's a place to visit with your partner, and enjoy a sunny afternoon that both of you will remember for a long time to come: the view of the sea, the beach and the "Finger of God" is yours, and yours alone...

At some point, you'll have to drag your thoughts back to the return journey. You can take a main road from Benirras to wherever it is you want to go, but if you're feeling peckish, you could opt to top off your afternoon with a good meal. Here are three options to choose from: On the San Joan road, you can stop off to eat at the "Can Curune" restaurant. Alternatively, you could pick "La Paloma" in Sant Lorenzo. Or you could just drive back to where you started, Santa Gertrudis, where there are plenty of restaurants to choose from, such as Bar Costa, famous for its cured ham, Foodism or "Passa Temps", both on the corner by the church. Have a great time and enjoy your meal!